Article From the Sunday Telegraph

Best east in the west

By Sarah Blake
November 26, 2006 12:00

Food: Quality Lebanese
Vibe: Packed with happy people
Service: Gracious, fast and friendly

I'VE just had one of those weekends that reminded me how lucky I am to live in Sydney. All the best of our gorgeous, sprawling city was showcased over two outings that began with a great meal on a Saturday night in the west and ended with a sun-soaked Sunday on the beach with the kids.

A recommended place in Parramatta's pumping eat street fell short, so my partner and I sought other options. The two venues most mentioned by foodies in Parramatta are Temasek, which has been serving excellent and authentic Malaysian fare for years, and the Lebanese fine diner El-Phoenician.

Both were jam-packed, and we were told there was no chance of a table, but it was early, so we took a stroll to check out Church St's predominantly Italian offerings and had a drink nearby. On our second attempt, the waitress at the El-Phoenician said there had been a cancellation.

So, our wandering at an end, we grabbed a table outside to savour the passing parade of families slurping on gelato and proud P-platers in hotted-up cars. Despite the full house, service was faultless: we had menus, drinks and a basket of bread - which included crunchy fried Lebanese bread - within minutes.

An entree trio of dips ($22) featured the best and smokiest baba ganoush we have had, drizzled with a fragrant, greenish olive oil and finished with pickles. There was also a zingy labne (home-made yoghurt dip) and a good hummus.

We selected a glass each of Peppertree shiraz ($8) from a smallish wine list with some stand-outs. It was good value. Most bottles are under $30.

Shish tawouk chicken skewers ($19) were succulent, and the crunchy pastry of two subasek ($13) surrounded a cinnamon-scented, minced lamb and pine nut filling. We were about to order dessert when two belly dancers took the floor and slowed service to a standstill as the whole restaurant joined the party.

Our creeping babysitting bill was starting to bite, though, so after taking in a little of the show we shared a gelato from a few doors down and headed home, secure in the belief that we had savoured the best of the west.

All restaurant meals are paid for and visits are unannounced